Reflections on Christmas in Korea

Santa came to Sacheon and I'm his Mum! Jordan donned the Santa suit for our tiny little church congregation last Saturday, and, with Gyum Jin interpreting, was able to hand out gifts (all donated by Kenny Anderson--along with the suit!) to the assorted tots in attendance. We had a whirlwind week with delicious food, like duck bulgogi on Thursday night at a nice restaurant with Gyum Jin and Kenny. It's more delicious than I can explain;

and kimchi bokumbop, particularly as prepared by a teensy little hole-in-the wall place by my old friend Erin's apartment, became another favorite! We actually had that dish twice. We found an adorable restaurant near the bus station which served it and decided to just eat there, tired after exploring Samcheonpo's bay market in the cold. But that version was just "nice," and I remembered the dish as far more savory when I'd eaten it with Erin before she left. Still hungry, Jordan suggested we sample the other also, so we walked another mile to the tiny, single owner place and bought the dish again--one serving, this time, to share. We watched her make it; and I'm going to take pictures of the little place later so I can remember always where it was. Jordan concurs--they make the BEST kimchi bokumbap by far!

But enough about FOOD (even though there's so much more to tell); Jordan was impressed as I always am with the local sights, smells and experiences to be had close to my home. These included this Buddhist temple, tucked up in the hills behind old villages, at the end of one of my favorite walks;

and the pagoda in Sacheon Park.

We looked out from each level and there are too many beautiful views, even in winter, to post them all on a blog, but here's one view of Sacheon.

We agree that the best way to experience Korea is in an area like Sacheon, which blends ancient traditions and views with current trends. We shared dinners with friends and co-workers, but on our own, we wandered through open air markets, village by-ways, the streets of Sacheon, the never-ending rows of fish vendors, Jinju's ancient castle (with Gyum Jin)and its historic museum, and sampled foods from street vendors and shops. There's a guy who daily creates a sweet loaf with a whole egg inside that you've got to try! My favorite thing to buy at the open market,though, besides pajeon, are these huge bags of rice crackers in multiple varieties. My students love them and so do I! This photo is actually from Busan, but it looks a lot like where I buy my stash in Sacheon for a $1 or 2 a bag.

My son was catapulted instantly to celebrity status by coming here. My co-workers, church friends, and students were so welcoming. But certain groups of students gathered around, popping by just to say "hi"...and one particular group of middle-school boys (the most entertaining group I teach) wouldn't attend any other classes while Jordan was in building! It was both embarrassing and delightfully heady for him

Jordan's back in the US now, finishing off his holiday with friends and family in Utah. I miss him horribly, along with everyone on the other side of the ocean. But, I'm deeply grateful for 5 of the most amazing days of my life--wonderful mostly because I got to share something new, dream-like, and foreign in my life with my best friend--my son.

Merry Christmas and Happy 2013! I hope this year, with all of the heartaches its bound to contain, also holds enough miracles to balance the scale.

Feelings of Christmas

http://www.lds.org/broadcasts/watch/christmas-devotional/2012/12?lang=eng&vid=2006503978001 Since I don't know how to properly hyperlink, if you'd like to listen to this, just copy/past the link--it's the recent "Oh Come All Ye Faithful" by the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Perhaps it's because this choir is a constant for me--Mom played their records every Christmas, so I heard them, I'm sure, even in the womb--,but, nothing evokes the Spirit of Christmas more quickly than their music. The next thing that gets me feeling gleeful for Christmas is my son's arrival, 3 days from now! He's the one laughing in the front.

Who knew we'd ever be spending Christmas together in Korea? Then, of course, there's the fact that I'm teaching English to Korean kids and talking about the season continually. I asked a friend to purchase and ship about 240 little candy canes to me from America. They're a huge hit! Most American kids might toss 'em out, or just give some grunt of acknowledgement for the paltry little things. But everyone here adores them--far more than the candy corn I sent for. Too bad. So much for the title of my blog.

But, the students themselves, the way I feel about them, light the spirit of Christmas in me every day. Since the concept of Christmas is a fairly remote one to these kids, centered on"what I want to get" for Christmas, we've been chatting about the origins of Christmas and coloring some stuff I sketched and wrote up for traditional Christmas carols, on top of our regular lesson plans. I gave the kids free reign in color choices, and here are a few of my favorites so far:

This more traditional treatment of Mary and the baby Jesus (although the blond hair is a little retro, reminiscent of the 1960's religious interpretations)...

...verses, Mary with a red veil and blue hair, holding red-haired baby Jesus, wrapped in green swaddling clothes. While we reviewed grammar concepts and lesson plans, they also colored mother and child, including their hair, skin and clothes, in bright red, blue, purple, yellow, orange, brown and black. The interpretations of Rudolph varied from shades of brown, white or black to exotic techni-colors and cow prints. Plain ole' lyrics to Jingle Bells were substantially spruced up:

Santa's suit, face, and beard were embellished with every imaginable color--yellow, blue, black, brown, pink, red, orange....

And rainbow!

The middle-school boys, who've driven me right up to that proverbial edge, have kept me laughing more often than reprimanding lately; and THEY have been the most creative. From tender and subtle coloring (the traditional Mary above was colored in by one of them) to outrageous, they warm my heart this season and remind me of the joys of raising a son!

Have a holly jolly week, despite the disappointments and horrors out there; because "a merry heart maketh a cheerful countenance: but by sorrow of the heart the spirit is broken"(Proverbs 15:13).

Let it Snow!!

By far, the biggest news in this part of the world is our snowfall, because this simply isn't done around here! Today 2 of my brothers share a birthday on Pearl Harbor day (or, that's when it'll be in a few American hours). So, it's somehow poetic--sort of--that nature has delivered another unique way to remember. I had no idea this was going on outside until nearly noon! Busy correcting papers (I teach from 2-9:30 pm), and watching computer generated TV, a Facebook post finally got me to look outside!! I'm waiting now to find out if we'll get a "snow day"--I hope so! Last day of middle-school students' final exams should warrant a snow day, don't you think? I know, if the issue was put to a popular vote, there'd be question. A cancellation would be inevitable in our forecast. We'll see! Don't know exactly why I want school to cancel, because I enjoy my job. But, I'm sleepy and would rather stay home to wrap presents, take a nap, and draw. I took the first photo earlier. It's much deeper now--I'll attach another when it stops!

YAHOO!! Most schools are ending early or canceling and that includes JC Academy! The kids have got to be so thrilled! Most of them write about the joys of snow fights and making snow men, but never get to do either around here. The snowfall appears to have ended, too! So, a walk is in order before hunkering back down to the original snow day plan. This type of winter view might not come along again, and I should see more than what's visible from my balcony.

So here's a bit of the view. Elementary school students everywhere are out inspecting the white stuff and making snowballs--even a few adults!

Snowmen are being formed from every large patch of snow, before wetter precipitation melts it all away! And some of my favorite sites are extra charming:

Like this rooftop behind my apartment, or this one across the street:

I'm sure the Buddhist temples look even more lovely, but I've already wandered around long enough, looking for charming little items to send home for the holidays and grocery shopping. I'm in the mood for more hot cocoa and sketching polar bears and pixies. Enjoy the season, whatever it brings!

Changing Seasons

http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/i'm-the-christmas-unicorn. Everyone needs a muse, and my son is basically mine for music. As a young teenager he accused me of warping him socially, because I raised him on classical music and he wasn't up on all the trendy music of his peers. So, I empathized, told him that some day he'd thank me, and there after we spent the bulk of our time listening to HIS selections of music while in the car (which was often, since I free-lance painted everywhere). As a mom, I got a glimpse into what was filling his head. As an individual, my musical palet expanded. Now he Does thank me for his classical roots, but, to my unexpected delight, he also keeps my soul filled with musical selections I'd never have considered without him. I'm a big fan of Sufjan now--even if I keep forgetting how to pronounce his name. As it turns out, this first song I found and copy/pasted, isn't the one my son posted, but since I love it too, I'll leave it. And here is the correct link (I hope--it's what I'm listening to now). The song is a hodge-podge of what Christmas "means." It's both cynical and hopeful, reflecting the collective souls residing on this planet, which is why the silly boy genius artist is so universally loved.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=5WECpuUM8bA Thank heavens for technology, because it allows us to share. In saying farewell to Thanksgiving, and welcoming the Christmas season, I'd like to say "thank you" to Korea for many things, but here are just a couple:

Asian dragons. They are way cooler than ours--more serpentine and colorful. I wish I could've gotten a closer picture of these at the Jinju lantern festival. They're positively breathtaking. Click on it to get a closer view or google them.

Also, with cold weather settling in, I've discovered a brand of hot cocoa that I really love and mandu, which is far, far yummier than the European style dumpling. I also love that on every food item I purchase, the calorie content for the entire package is listed right on the front, thereby enabling my understanding of exactly how much damage I've done after compulsively consuming the whole package. However, there's less sugar in everything, so add that to the list of cool things about Korea! Oh, and for those of us old enough to remember when opening something wrapped in plastic was a simple process, it still IS here! Food is covered and sufficiently insulated, but you don't need a knife or pair of scissors to get at it. Crazy American packaging--

My students continually make me laugh, like when we played "stick the nose on the Ghost" (variation on the old "pin the tail on the donkey")! And I want to especially say "THANK YOU" to one of our young missionaries who's leaving for a new area this week.

See the tallest guy in the line up? That's Elder Mortensen. He's from Utah, and has been here for months. He serves as translator and helps keep our tiny branch together. I unexpectedly cried like a baby today. It's his last Sunday in Sacheon, and he's become something like a son to me. Since I don't generally get very attached to missionaries--they don't stay in one place long enough--this tells you what a great guy Elder Mortensen is. He shared his Nyquil when I was sick and tries to be all things for everyone. Luckily, Elder Campbell, the other tall American, is pretty darn great too. But Elder Mortensen will be sorely missed.

It's Autumntime

The Jinju Lantern Festival and Gyeonguju trips were amazing, but our trips to nearby scenic locations have been concluded for the year, because it's quite chilly now.

All of the rice has been harvested and smoky fires spotted across the dying fields replace the bright greens of summer. It's cozy, actually. Instead of traveling now, most of us are taking turns catching some sort of virus or other and this weekend it's my turn. Having slept through most of my weekend, thanks to Nyquil, I had decided to share a little video clip, but it doesn't want to download for me...argh. We recently had a story telling and speaking presentation day at our school, for which I served as judge. This time, however, I had 3 classes of students involved in the event and directed them through their part in between judging, so I fumbled a few times. I put together a conversation for them, using grammar points they'd studied, along with 3 songs. This is our very first try at a speaking presentation, and we had only days to really prepare the final production. But this class of 4 girls were very enthused and willing, so I'd hoped to share it with you!

Their "English names" are Elly, Julia, Jessica and Heidi. I got to hear some of them perform this week at their schools too and, while I'm fond of many of my students, this group of 4 girls holds a particularly large space in my heart because they're so enthusiastic about anything and everything. They're smart, talented, creative and it's contagious. Over Chuseok vacation, I painted the classroom to brighten it up and no one was more enthused about the change than these girls!

Now we're working on preparing for more academic tests, along with another round of speaking presentations, so I'm trying to incorporate things to be thankful for with an old story of a competition between the sun and the wind. This blog probably feels a little disconnected, because I'd planned on sharing the video of my girls singing and speaking...sigh. Maybe later? However, good things are happening, life is vibrant and varied, as the students keep me from ever, EVER being bored! Finding stuff to do at the end of an already long school day is no small task, since these kids come to us after a full day of public school classes already and "fun" is defined in so many different ways.

Whether it's bowling, basketball, stick the nose on the ghost, or toss the eraser egg with chopsticks, every day holds something different, with or without trips out of town!

Thoughts Penned By My Students

Every week I go over the grammar of over a hundred students' homework and essays. Some of it really intrigues me, and I'd like to share, beginning with this assigned topic: “Should Chewing gum be made illegal in Korea like it is in Singapore?” More or less unedited, here are some arguments against its banning, which depart from the norm: “We can taste and feel fresh when we chew. But if chewing gum is illegal, we can’t feel it.” “It can be useless for someone, but it can be useful to the others. The gum is really good for solving strain before having a test. It can be rude to someone, but it will be helpful to the others.” “The chin’s muscles can strengthen if we chew gum, our chin is moving. So, it is strengthened.” Hmmm…I hadn't considered that. “Gum can decrease our halitosis.” Have YOU ever heard that word? I had to look it up. “No one likes bad smelling people. Gum can decrease our bad smell and feeling of discomfort.” Also, by the same author (and more than one student thought of this) “people who are working at gum factories will lose their jobs. Increasing jobless people is not good for our economy.” Her closing argument: “Many children enjoy making big gum balloons.” :-) A young man adds, “According to research, chewing gum accelerates activities of the brain.” Did you know that? “Gum can make feeling change. If I feel gloomy, I’m chewing gum. Then my feel change more happy. And I think it can decrease afraid with sweet flavor.” “There are people who hate chewing gum. I understand. However, I think that if they hope for esteem, they also have to esteem other people.” Now here’s an interesting arguments FOR banning gum in Korea: “People’s face shape will become square. When we chew so much we will change the shape of our face to square.” Hmmmm….. One of my brightest elementary aged students' ability to speak and understand English is superb. His written skills—not so much. But his lack of writing skills don't mask the brilliance of his ideas: “I want to flying. I’m can’t flying. But, it’s so much fun. Also I want to eat fire.” He finishes with “I don’t like study. I’m a very happy person.” He IS!

What matters to my students is intriguing, as is revealed in answers to this topic “If you knew you were going to die tomorrow, what would you do today?” One sweet girl wants to meet a famous Korean singer, but she also wants to “travel with my family or…friends; or I’d kill my the most hated man; or I’d eat a lot of foods. I have many thing before the die. So I don’t never never die!!”

(For the record, I'm not matching photos up with quotes.) These kids have really, really full days, but when asked about how to improve her study habits, one girl wrote: “I didn’t think about that…Umm! What’s that? I think I had better make my plan. Then, I think I will study more better. When I want play computer games, I see my plan for future and I think, “I will study really hard!” Just my think. But it’s Okay. Why not?” She’s one of my best and brightest, by the way. Lots of the kids love Fall. “I think the fall is very beautiful season. It’s good to reading and playing. I love the weather of fall. In the fall, sky is so deep blue, and the weather is very refreshing. It’s not hot or cold. To we, Koreans, refreshing weather of fall is almost blessing of God. Thank you.” One boy, who wrote in a previous essay that he wants to be a terrorist and kill off the North Koreans, wrote this in the next: “I want to say to my children, “grow well and what you want to be,” and they will grow well, and my children grow what they want to be. But I want to tell them to be a teacher, to be a doctor. But they will grow what they want to be in the future.” I love this boy!

Another writes that he’ll “pass [his] room [to his] sister” when he dies. Naturally, in every day life he teases her mercilessly. I particularly love this part of his entry, though: “I’ll keep my favorite books and toys, because my soul will play with that.” My soul still smiles when I read this! In keeping with the wrapping up of presidential elections, a twelve year old girl wrote this: “I’m president??!!!! If I’m president, I think I'll really happy!!! Why? All people like me and sometimes they send presents to me.” Then she ponders more deeply; “But, I think I can’t work very well….Oh!!! My!!!!” The true nature of a president’s job begins to settle in, along with its possible ramifications; “If I work really bad….Who wants to die [kill] me?….And throw eggs to me…!!!It’s really scary…I like all people and I want to meet people and smile to them. And say “Nice to meet you.”

There you have it. Youth still speaks volumes. We all want to love and be loved and precious few of us can handle what we wish for.

Spiders and Politics

First, sorry I didn't post yesterday. I ate some veggies1 I think I should've cooked first and pretty much just kept my bathroom company for a large percentage of the day. Bleh. But I'm all better today, so "ㅏ뇽하세ㅛ (hello)!" and here's a photo on top of a mountain from a hike I took w/friends about a month ago.

Last week we celebrated Halloween in an assortment of unique ways. We had a story telling contest and speaking presentations on Thursday which I judged--these kids are so smart! I'll include a video of what I helped one of my favorite small classes of girls prepared as soon as I get the copy I requested. Also, I wore the skeleton earrings and bat ring I brought with me and freaked out my students. Also, had them decorate construction paper ghosts and monsters, as well as draw faces with sharpies on persimmons instead of pumpkins. I have no photos right now bc. my camera's memory is full and I don't know how to clear it out yet. Sigh. The challenges of owning my brain. On Friday the school was packed with kids as they collected on good behavior points with a Halloween party. The only thing typical for the season were the decorations, which the other employees put up--I didn't know they were going to decorate! I worked at the food table for a few hours, serving chopped up fried chicken, tater tots and french fries into paper cups with chopsticks! The could also purchase ramen in various sizes and containers and some traditional fish/red sauce/rice pasta dish, but, there were no sweets! The kids didn't care. I served with others until I had to sit down and serve because my back ached and kids tried to crowd in front of each other to get what was there. Movies were shown in another room, I think, and cute stationary in another. I got some Hello Kitty (hugely popular here, despite the undercurrent of animosity toward Japan) post-its and Barbie stickers. :-)

Finally, in honor or Halloween, and the name of this blog, here's one big bad beastly spider that can capture and eat small birds! These webs weathered the horrible typhoons and I freed a tiny bird from one, which is how I know they capture the little things, so I hate these monsters! Its body is almost the size of my thumb.

This creepy crawly, though, is more colorful and spins an exquisitely gorgeous web. Since we've had frost for the last few mornings and the temperatures have dropped, shriveling up a lot of the plant life and felling leaves, the spiders have disappeared. But, they'll be back and spin their webs everywhere in the Spring. It's actually quite lovely to see how many webs there are when coated with morning dew and illuminated by the sunrise. With the Presidential election so close, I feel deeply invested and am going to include a couple of links for my candidate of choice. When I conduct my essay writing classes every Wednesday, I voice my opinion on the topic, but encourage them to do the same. They do! Often, they disagree with me and I applaud it, as long as they back up their reasoning in the essay. Those classes are among my favorites and encourage me to get a job teaching English literature in America too. So, in the spirit of voicing what I believe and encouraging others to do the same, I'm praying for Romney and Ryan. If you disagree with me, please don't be offended, and I won't judge you either! How the heck can we get anything done, ever, if we can't say what we think and hear each other?

http://www.mittromney.com/donate/red-rocks See you next week, after the voters have spoken! https://www.mittromney.com/donate/real-change-day-one/?sc=INTRRP010

Gyeongju notes and Seoul's LDS temple trip!

It was a 20 hour trip in total. I began the journey with some faithful members of my Church nearby at around 9:30 pm. Already exhausted following the previous weekend's trip to Gyeongju, and then hanging out with my 2 home-bound American friends all week, plus, of course, my job, I was less than excited to go. But, who could say no to a temple trip to Seoul? Well--our aged driver also seemed to be rather sleep deprived. So our adventure took on a whole new dynamic as we lurched, braked eratically, and wove over traffic lanes...I watched in horror as cars dodged us. My prayers were more direct and sincere than usual all the way to Seoul. We did arrive in one piece at about 3:00 am, 90 minutes later than the trip usually takes. The "dorms" where we slept until it was our turn to enter the temple, consisted of floors to stretch out on and snooze or, if you're a kid, play hide and seek. No one but me was surprised by this. Before I joined the others in attempting to rest, I walked alone around the darkened temple. That was the quiet payoff for me--a small edifice, the temple was never-the-less, regally dignified and peaceful. I slept through both actual temple sessions. During our long journey home, which stretched from 4 into 6 hours, since the same sleepy old guy was driving, 2 very patient and wise men sat close behind him and started chatting w/the guy every time the bus started wandering across lanes (which it did frequently). I imagine I will try the trip again, since I'm Relief Society President in my tiny branch, but not for a couple of months and NOT without a different driver!! Now about Gyeoungju...it's everything everyone says it is, and more...happily, our director rented bicycles for us the first day. I've not been on one a bike in over 20 years, but had a blast! The weather was picture perfect and we all acted like overgrown kids, even when a flat tire required extra time to wrap up the day!

I could include a bunch of classic shots, since we stopped at so many amazing places and I DID get some memorable photos, including a 1000 year old forest,

the AMAZING Bulguksa Temple, Anapji Pond and the National Museum,

but I'm sure the internet is also for that. Instead, meet equally amazing people, starting with my co-workers. Using their American names, as we use at the JC Academy, here's Christine in the middle of flowers in the Wolseoung Fortress, and then Haley and Olivia perched like tree nymphs in the 1000 year old Gyerim Forest.

Jack takes more pictures than anyone, but had me take a photo of him by this stone statue--his eyes are closed like the statue's:

Finally, here's one of the whole gang on the grass in front of the tombs of kings and queens of Park Hyeokgeose.

I used up all the memory in my phone the morning of the 2nd day because I was so fascinated by every inch of the places we visited. Rather than snap a lot of photos which are already famous, I was mesmerized by angles, corners and nooks like this one, where nature, planning and architecture come together so beautifully:

Or this spot where Autumn added magic to an already enchanted old wall:

Here's another shot of Haley and Olivia in the middle of one of many old streets.

I purchased a small handmade sprouting pot from this lady artist at the base of the Gameunsa Temple ruins site:

Her work's amazing and I wish she lived closer to me! Having taken 2 pottery classes at BYU, I'd love to try to learn from her and buy more...

Another highlite of the trip, was Yong Bu-Choe. An elderly gentleman with impecable English speaking skills (despite never having traveled to America!!), asked if I'd like to hear a story about the ancient house of Choe we were visiting--everyone gathered around to hear the rules of what it took to make a great household stay great, including words of wisdom like not allowing anyone within 100 kilometers of your home to go hungry and making sure a new daughter-in-law wears only cotton for the first 3 years of marriage. I got his card and we all got a photo with this amazing man. Soft spoken and articulate, we were in awe of him. Finally, I noticed a father kissing his son near the underwater tomb of the Great King Munmu, and got him to repeat the act a half dozen times and will close with what my camera captured--which is at the heart of all that's best, not only in South Korea, but every warm, happy, spot on this Earth.